MENTORING Aweaver is guided by National Living Treasure and Mandaya weaver SamporoniaMadanio (right) at theWorld Ikat Textile Symposium held in Baguio City on Dec. 6. 鈥擩OEL ARTHUR TIBALDO
BAGUIO CITY 鈥� Textile experts from around the world are calling for an authentication system to preserve indigenous fabrics and safeguard them from counterfeiting, as Mindanao weavers delivered a strong message during this year鈥檚 World Ikat Textiles Symposium: 鈥淒on鈥檛 steal our ikat!鈥�
Mandaya weaver Samporonia Madanlo and Tboli elders Rosie Sula and Barbara Ofong voiced their concerns about the misuse of their cultural heritage and traditional weaving knowledge during the 鈥渋kat鈥� (a method for coloring fabric in patterns before it is woven) symposium held here on Thursday.
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Hosted in the Philippines for the first time, the weeklong event took place in Baguio City and featured classic and traditional weaving practices from Mindanao, Ifugao, Mountain Province, China, India, Timor-Leste, Malaysia, Uzbekistan and Japan.
The symposium also brought to light the challenges of cultural misappropriation and the mass reproduction of indigenous textiles, particularly those with deep ritual significance.
鈥淲hat I am afraid of is how our designs are commandeered through the internet and social media and imitated so others can profit from [her community鈥檚 Tnalak weaving techniques] 鈥� Do not copy them,鈥� said Ofong, a South Cotabato-based weaver who was declared a national living treasure for textile weaving by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts last year.
Ofong, 68, who learned her craft from her parents at age 12, underscored the importance of preserving authentic patterns handed down through generations. 鈥淧ara di mawala (So they do not disappear), I will not follow new [modern weaving] patterns,鈥� she said.
Ilocano researcher Malot Ingels highlighted the significance of weaving in empowering women and giving them 鈥渁 special place鈥� in their communities, adding that changes to traditional weaving practices should evolve organically, without outside interference.
Singaporean textile consultant and researcher Joseph Lo proposed the establishment of an authenticity certification system to safeguard indigenous textile traditions.
鈥淭he world is big enough for everybody,鈥� Lo said, suggesting that such a program could validate newly reproduced textiles while ensuring that artisans remain 鈥渁t the driver鈥檚 seat.鈥�